How to Pick the Right Infrared Heater for Your Bathroom
Let’s be honest: nobody likes stepping out of a hot shower into a freezing bathroom. It’s a shock to the system. But when you’re picking out an infrared heater, it’s easy to get caught up in the numbers. The goal is simple: you want to feel warm the second you step out, without turning your bathroom into a sauna or tripping your circuit breaker. Getting the wattage right Here is the thing about wattage. If you go too low, you’ll be standing there shivering, wondering why you bought the thing. Go too high, and you’ll end up with “hot spots” that feel like you’re standing under a heat lamp at a buffet. If you’ve just got a tiny powder room (under 4m²), keep it simple. Something in the 250W to 400W range is usually plenty. It keeps your skin warm without overheating a space that’s basically a closet. For a standard bathroom (around 4m² to 8m²), you’ll probably want to bump that up to 600W or 800W. Then you have the big master baths—anything over 8m². For these, you’re looking at 1000W or more. You might even want to put a few smaller heaters in different spots so the warmth is spread out. Just remember: the higher your ceiling, the more power you need. If the heater is way up high, the heat has a longer trip to make before it hits you. The trade-offs More wattage means the room feels warm faster. That sounds great, right? But it also puts more stress on your electrics. If you’re installing a beefy 1200W lamp, just double-check that your wiring can actually handle it. You don’t want your lights flickering every time the heat kicks in. One thing to keep in mind: infrared is different from a space heater. It doesn’t really heat the air; it heats you. That’s why you feel that instant glow even if the air in the room is still chilly. But be careful if you have low ceilings (under 2.2 meters). A high-power lamp in a tight space can actually feel a bit “stinging” on the skin. In those cases, go with a lower wattage or something that diffuses the heat. Saving a bit of cash To keep things safe and efficient, I’d suggest putting these on their own dedicated circuit. And since you don’t need the heat on 24/7, grab a timer or a smart controller. There’s no point in paying to heat an empty room. Set it to run only when you’re actually in there, and you’ve nailed the balance between comfort and your electric bill.